I did a couple of pretty irrelevant tests, which involved the current layout of the site and Opera Browser for Symbian phones. I own a (ancient, by the italian cell phone TTL) Nokia 6600 which still fulfills my needs, so I tried navigating here with the standard Opera browser for the phone: no go. It would stuck at the first redirect, and I didn’t look into the problem.
Today I downloaded and installed Opera Mini which happily downloaded all the correct bits and bytes from the homepage.
Cool, I don’t even need to change the .css to adapt it to my phone. :)
 making/receiving calls, checking mail and GPS navigation